Chromebook 2017: Neverware CloudReady

Over the past semester or two (not sure which), I have been trying to find an OS that will work on the HP laptop I was given without running the risk of overheating and shutting it down or crashing. When it was initially given to me, it had Windows 10 installed. Since then, I have tried both Windows 7 and Ubuntu, and neither have really brought me much relief. At one point, I considered installing RemixOS on it because at some point I considered getting an Android phone, but honestly I wasn't that impressed by the Windows emulator, and figured the real thing wouldn't be much better.

Then I remembered trying ChromeOS at one point and figured I would give it another try. I've read it is supposed to be really good for older PCs and I had recently read an article about an operating system that was nearly identical to it's retail counterpart called CloudReady.

CloudReady UI

Let me just start out by saying that this is not the same OS I used almost six years ago. Besides having an Office365 version (that costs $1/year and needs a corporate account), it also keeps up with its retail counterpart, including Android App Conversion. From personal experience, two apps are needed for this process, and I prefer to install them in the order I list them. They are ArcWelder, and Twerk.

ArcWelder Chrome App

 Again, from personal experience, ArcWelder serves as more of the back-end of the app conversion experience. I tried to use it first, and didn't have much luck. Maybe if I get into more web programming it'll come in handy, but I've only taken one class so far, so we'll have to wait and see.

Twerk Chrome App

Twerk (not to be confused with a certain dance) is, from what I have found, the more front-end and user interface of the app experience. I have also found that it will not convert an app store APK file to Chrome, so your best bet is to download each app individually and run them on a trial-and-error basis.

As far as what it can do, I have found that it'll work nicely whenever I retake WDD100. I have already found a replacement for Brackets that includes its own version of Beautify built in, and it also synchronizes nicely with Dropbox and other web services, such as Office 365 (even though there is a separate Academic version for that). All in all, it is a worthwhile OS. I just can't use my laptop on my lap directly or else it will overheat and shut down.

Windows 10 S: A Horse of a Different Color

By now, the news has spread about Microsoft's new edition of Windows 10. For the most part, this OS behaves exactly like Windows 10. The only caveat is that it cannot run native Windows applications unless they have been downloaded through the Windows Store. Before I switched to Ubuntu LXDE, I had the opportunity to try this edition of Windows 10 thanks to a trial that allowed existing users of Windows 10 Education users to "upgrade" their license to the new OS. 

Windows 10 S error prohibiting installation of software from native EXE files.

Anyway, as noted by the above image and caption, the "S" in Windows 10 S means, in short, that without third-party software, like Citrix, an end user can only install applications from the Windows Store. While, in the long run, this is a very good idea, in the current state of things, it is a horrible situation for the average consumer that thinks they can get a fully-functional Windows PC at a Chromebook price. Imagine if someone's grandparent walked into Best Buy and wanted a new PC at an affordable cost, and expected all of their existing software to work, only to find the above message on their screen. In short, if enough people bought into it, especially without the proper disclosures, there would be a lot of angry returns from senior citizens and otherwise computer illiterate customers wondering why the crap they can't install iTunes or Quicken or where the heck their FreeCell game went.

That being said, it's not that Windows 10 S is a horrible idea, because it truly isn't. In fact, with the Citrix option, it might even make a great Thin Client option. On the surface (not the new laptop that is included with the OS), however, as stated before, the right marketing needs to be handled to ensure that end users aren't blind sighted by incompatibility issues, and that goes the same for its  corporate minded brother.

"I Can't Do That, Dave"

Editor's Note: Hopefully, I will eventually release a follow up review of a small list of apps to download for the device. It is likely it will be in a combination review of UWP apps for Windows 10.

Front and Rear Views of

HTC One M8 For Windows

Okay, science fiction references aside, I finally acquired a new smartphone. After much thought, research, and a sleepless night or two, I ended up settling on the HTC One M8 for Windows. When it arrived from Amazon, one of the first things I did was try to upgrade it to Windows 10 Mobile. Sure, this seems crazy, but it is powerful enough and I was kind of excited about being able to carry a computer in my pocket that I could connect to my television. However, things haven't quite turned out that way. I tinkered around with various tutorials, and still no luck. Even after I took it to the Verizon store across the street from me to have it activated, I still was not able to upgrade the operating system, and at the time, I was feeling rather defeated. However, as time passed, I started tinkering around with other computer projects, and getting to know the device, I realized that this wasn't all bad. One of the main reasons I wanted Windows 10 on my phone was for the Continuum feature, which allows your phone to act like a standard PC.

 

However, after further investigation and tinkering, I found two of the next best things: Office Remote, which is an app for controlling PowerPoint slides from your phone, and the other is called Mouse Remote, and as it suggests, it allows you to control your computer from your phone with a companion app for Windows 10 known as PC Remote Server. While it is true that neither of these get me a genuine "PC-In-Your-Pocket" experience in the same respect as Windows 10, honestly, both are equally decent options.

On another note, (specifically the title of this post) I have found Microsoft's Cortana assistant unusually helpful. I was specifically looking for something to help me with scheduling appointments and other stuff where I could always have it on hand, and so far, this has been it.  The app has been decent enough that I have went and re-enabled it on my Windows 10 Education PC. IE for WP8 is also decent and (don't tell anyone, but) I've also found Microsoft Edge to be quite speedy and lightweight, and I was also able to import all of my bookmarks from my previous browser.

Home Networking Simplified, Part 1

An example of a wireless router.

A while back, I wrote a walkthrough regarding the setup of a Wi-Fi extender or "booster." Well today I am going to give you the other half of this story. Most of the process of setting up a wireless router is quite similar, however, there are some differences.

Since the router connects from the modem to a host computer, if you're doing this for the first time, you will arguably want to follow the directions exactly as they are shown on the box. Typically, though, one of the things that is typically noted in a router's manual is that the user should shut down their modem before installing the router.

I actually did this with the first one I ever used, and honestly, it isn't absolutely necessary. If anything, it is going to make things take longer, and occasionally you'll get a faulty piece of hardware if you are renting a modem from your internet provider. When that happens, and the internet doesn't come up right away, you'll most likely wonder if you did something wrong. From personal experience, it took three modems, and two line connection tightening trips to have continuous internet when I was at my parents' house.

At any rate, the process of setting up a router is fairly similar to the instructions outlined in my previous post. The last couple of routers I've used came with a setup CD, so once you connect the router to power, your modem, and computer, you should be all set. All that is needed is to pop in the CD and follow the directions it asks for. Most routers will have a "default" default gateway (trust me, there is no intentional double-negative being used here) of 192.168.1.1. I've noticed that Netgear's basic products like to have a custom URL, such as routerlogin.net, or something similar, and this will also yield the same result.

Before you try this, make sure the router is working. On a Windows PC, the easiest method is to open a Command Prompt by typing "command" or "cmd" depending on your OS version into a run/search box and entering the term "IPCONFIG." This term is not case sensitive, and if your numbers start with 169 for the address or gateway, then you most likely have run into trouble. Typically only a manual reset (using the pinhole button) is needed, but sometimes it is just easier to unplug and reconnect your router or modem. If all as well, your situation should look like the one in the previous paragraph.

Anyway, after you have logged into the router, you can (and should) change the default SSID. This term refers to the name of the network that pops up when you try to connect (i.e. Starbucks, Verizon, etc.) and the associated password. Write this new info down and keep it in a safe place until you or your device have it memorized, and can look it up in your browser settings later.

Once you have done this, you should be good to go! Happy surfing! :)

The Video Game Crash of 2017

On March 3, Nintendo released their latest console, the Switch. Prior to its release, there was a lot of hype about it, and at the time, including what software the interface would be built on, etc. There was a lot of speculation that this would be an Android-based device, (example here) which I would assume would make it not only a game console, but also a pseudo-productivity tablet. Unfortunately, as time went on, I continued reading newer articles regarding its development, and realized that this wouldn't be the case. That said, I was still looking forward to the console, and the progression of its development and release.

Nintendo Switch diagram (sans Joy Con)

However, as time went on, and its release date came and went, I moved back and forth on my decision regarding if I would purchase one. A lot of its games looked impressive. Mario Odyssey, Bomber Man R, Mario Kart 8 Deluxe and Mario+Rabbids, just to name a few. I also looked into Nintendo's competition in both the console and handheld markets and the PS Vita, PS4 Pro, Xbox One X (a highly original name, by the way!) didn't really entice me. Despite the hype (or lack thereof, in my case), I continued to read up on Nintendo's console and observe its features and gaming library. Here are a few issues that have now turned me against the console and in pursuit of alternatives:

5) Backward-compatibility issues: This is the most obvious deal breaker. As this article from Mic.com states, it is literally impossible to transfer your games from another console to the Nintendo Switch without home brew-level methods, meaning you are SOL for digital content (not that Game Stop would do it anyway, but that's another rant).

4) Rules have changed: As this article from Nintendo Life states, Nintendo has updated the eShop to the point where you can't transfer games from the Wii U or 3DS line to the Nintendo Switch, but you will be able to use the same Nintendo eShop credit. Strike two, Nintendo.

3) Price: I've already forked out $550 for a Nintendo 3DS and Wii U. Add the cost of games and accessories, and eventually I could buy everything that I need to run a Nintendo switch as a dedicated server (not that it has that capability). By now I'm just ready to wash my hands of Mario and move on (more on that later).  

2) Steam: I have switched computers more than once, and every time, I have been able to log on to my Steam Account from the new PC and my content licenses have been able to seamlessly transfer my content licenses from one PC to another. One of the above articles claims that Nintendo Switch licenses will be saved to the "cloud" rather than the system, but it is too little too late. Besides, a Steam Link with Controller costs less than a 4K-compatible gaming Roku.

Steam Link with Steam Controller.

1) Better Mobile options on the market: Upon further research, I have discovered that there is currently an Atom-based handheld device that dual-boots Windows 10 and Android and also features video game controls but improved. Think of it as an improved Xperia Play or PSP Go. If its Windows Mode features Continuum, I might be able to leave my laptop in my backpack when I need to do presentations for class assignments, thus simplifying setup and processes and shortening required time. Plus, if I am desperate for Nintendo Nostalgia, I can always download Super Mario Run or other mobile apps.

PGS "Portable Gaming System"

With those factors in mind, I am ready to wash my hands of Nintendo's console gaming market. It's been a good run, but it is time for me to move on. In a way, history is starting to repeat itself, with various types of home console/computer hybrids flooding the market, and this time, the target will be portable gaming.

For a comparison with the 1983 crash view this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv7DJrLAZus

W10 Review, Pt. 3 (and verdict on "Why Buy New")

A while back I wrote a comparison shopping review on the HP 6910p and Dell XT2. When I wrote this review, I was at the time in possession of a Toshiba laptop running Windows Vista Home Premium, which was very near the end of its life. Since then I have moved to Rexburg, experienced Windows 10 full-time, and have also had some full-time experience with Windows 8(.1).

After a couple of semesters, I received a refurbished Windows 7 laptop that was upgraded to Windows 10 Pro, and came with OpenOffice. I have since replaced the Windows License with my academic one as well as installed my academic copy of Office 2016 (not 365). The laptop in question (which this review was typed on) is an HP 2540p.

Overall, despite running a little on the hot side, this laptop is a decent machine. In comparison with the 6910p, the 2540p has a better processor, better optical drive, double the RAM, and almost double the storage capacity. The 2540p can also write DVDs, whereas the 6910p can only read them, but does write CDs. I've read around that the 2540p is also LightScribe compatible, however, despite being able to download the appropriate software, I have not been able to confirm this particular hardware specification.

At one point, I also bought an HDMI-based TV tuner for my laptop (#FutureReview) and I was able to install it fairly flawlessly. Initially I had a hiccup with the included software, however, after a hard disk re-imaging, I was able to get my Wii U console to output sound to it.

Honestly, there are only two downsides to this computer, and those are the Touch Pad/Track Point system and the amount of heat it generates. I have managed to resolve the first one with a $15 optical mouse from Walmart, and at some point, I will most likely remedy the heat situation with an external fan system that mounts to the bottom of the machine. Despite these two flaws, I would highly recommend this machine to someone who is looking for a school computer that can handle a few Steam games.

HP Compaq 6910p

HP Elite Book 2540p

Model	HP 6910p	HP 2540p
Processor	2.2Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo  T5900 (Penryn)	2.1Ghz Intel Core i7-640LM (Arrandale)
RAM	2GB	4GB
Storage	80GB	120GB
Optical	DVD-ROM/CD-RW	DVDRW
OS	Windows 7 Home Premium	Windows 7 Pro
	(Both upgradable to Windows 10 Education)
Other Specs for 6910p and 2540p can be found at Newegg.com (links are model numbers)

Update: As of September 7, 2017, I have since made new discoveries while tinkering with my 2540p laptop. After some tinkering around, my major source of overheating has been the laptop battery. Until I can figure out a permanent solution, I have been currently operating it while plugged into an outlet and have left the battery disconnected and set off to the side. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to figure out the culprit as I will be able to talk with the person who gave it to me/set it up. Update #2: After my work shift on September 8, I did some browsing around and was able to find and purchase an external fan system for only $5. Very reasonably priced, and has thus far managed to resolve the overheating issue.

Home Networking Simplified, Part 2*

*Author's Note: See Part 1 here. * 

During my time here at BYU Idaho, I realized that the apartment I live in is comprised of a brick exterior, which makes getting a good Wi-Fi signal a pain in the butt, especially since I am in one of the corner apartments. Anyway, a couple of weeks ago, I went down to Walmart to try and remedy this situation. 

Wi-Fi Range Extender ("Booster")
Available at most electronics retailers
Self-Explanatory device w/Ethernet.

During this particular trip, I remembered that my brother used to be a Comcast Internet technician, as well as some of the advice I used to overhear as a result. At any rate, after either a phone call or remembered advice, as well as the consult of a Walmart associate, I settled on the product featured below, and took it home to set it up. 

After looking through the included instructions, I was able to set it up to mirror my apartment's existing Wi-Fi, with an SSID of x_Ext (where "x" represents the original Wi-Fi identity). I was also fortunate enough to have purchased an Ethernet cable on a previous trip because this one did not have one included in the box. 

At any rate, the device's instructions were very simple and required connecting the device to my laptop with the aforementioned cable, and logging in to the device via Chrome (or another web browser) and connecting it to my apartment Wi-Fi. 

Once I was on the Netgear page, the process was very simple and had a novice-friendly menu. I followed the instructions in the box, which directed me to a Netgear website and from there, I followed their on-screen prompts. The process was very similar to installing a Wireless router (see note above) and the device itself works very effectively, as long as the host Wi-Fi is working. 

At some point this will come in handy if I ever take a work from home customer service job, which normally requires hard-wired internet. Initally, I considered purchasing a "Power-line" kit, however, those require an existing Wireless router, which didn't help my situation, other than buying a separate product at extra cost. 

This device, however, doesn't require an existing router, and is equal to stringing a network cable from one room to another, but with the convenience of an existing Wi-Fi signal. 

In simple terms, it's about as easy as connecting a broadcast antenna to your television. I don't regret buying one, and would recommend it to anyone that is either a) having wireless issues or b) needs to be wired in to the internet but doesn't have that luxury.